Im Norden

December 13th, 2005 Latitude: S Longitude: E

2005-12-08 18-49-41 lahijan iran Verlässt man Teheran, verändert sich nicht nur die Landschaft. Auch die Menschen sind anders. Großstadt versus Provinz? Machtzentrum versus Peripherie? Oder ist es die verschiedene Mentalität der Menschen anderer Regionen? Für uns sind diese Fragen nicht zu beantworten. Wir beobachten, registrieren, stauen und freuen uns: Über die jungen Frauen, die uns offen ansprechen, flirten, wie wir es von zuhause nicht gewohnt sind; über die Familienväter, die uns zum Kebap einladen oder die Metzger, die mit Stolz in ihren Laden einladen, damit auch die Decke und nicht nur das Schaufenster fotografiert werden kann. Überall ergibt sich die Möglichkeit zum Austausch, einige englische Worte reichen, manchmal hilft die Übersetzung ins Farsi durch unsere Reisebegleiter. Manchmal bedarf es nicht mehr, als eines Lächelns.

Nicht das Kaspische Meer, das unsere Destination war, die Menschen hier sind die Attraktion. In Rasht werden wir durch das Funkhaus geführt, bestaunen für uns längst vergangene Maschinen, die hier noch zur Alltagsarbeit bereitstehen.

2005-12-08 12-39-18 rasht gilan iran

Ein Kinderhörspiel wird von drei Damen im Tschador inszeniert. Diese, beim staatlichen Rundfunk vorgeschriebene schwarze Ganzkörperbedeckung steht im deutlichen Kontrast zum klangfarbenfrohen Engagement der Damen. Da wird geflötet, gelispelt, geträllert, dass man Muskelkater in den Mundwinkeln befürchten muss.

In Lahijan werden wir auf den “Berg des Satans” geführt, eine etwa 360 Meter Erhebung am Rande der Stadt, Ausläufer einer mit Teeplantagen bewachsenen Bergkette. 1000 Stufen haben wir zu erklimmen, dann erreichen wir die neu errichtete Seilbahn der Firma Doppelmayer aus Österreich, die uns auf den “Gipfel” bringen wird. Einer der Bauleiter vermutet hohen Besuch, obschon wir eher leger in Fleece-Jacken und bequemen Schuhen unterwegs sind. Schnell werden VIP-Karten hervorgeholt, die extra vom Provinz-Radio organisierten Tickets bleiben stecken.

2005-12-08 16-22-50sheytan berg lahijan iran Der satanische Hügel ist die Wochenendattraktion schlechthin. Bald verstehen wir auch warum. Zwei Kabinen vor uns steigt ein junges Paar ein, sie im züchtigen Tschador. Kaum setzt sich die Gondel in Bewegung, wird aus den zwei Silhouetten eine: Die kurzen Momente der Einsamkeit werden fix ausgenutzt, so selten, wie sie sind. Oben angekommen schälen wir uns aus der Kabine und landen auf einem Platz, der neben der Baustelle für die noch fertig zu bauende Bergstation einige Teehütten, einen improvierten Kiosk und einen Spielplatz bereit hält. Die Aussicht ist vermutlich nur für Menschen interessant, die beim herunter schauen ihr eigenes Haus oder Auto entdecken können. Unser Blick schweift über die Teeplantagen, es werden Pläne für ein “Tea-Hills-Trekking” geschmiedet. Nächstes Mal.

2005-12-08 18-48-38 lahijan iranIn den Strassen von Lahijan wollen wir Tee kaufen und Gewürze. Die Läden sind bis unter die Decke vollgestellt mit den Waren, Gewürzen, Nüssen, Blüten und getrockneten Früchten. Eine Orgie der Farben und Gerüche, das meiste liegt offen – greifen Sie doch zu, probieren Sie! Obschon es Wochenende ist und abends sind unzählige Menschen unterwegs. Keine Ecke wird freigelassen, wo ein Platz bleibt, um Ware auszulegen, wird etwas verkauft, viele Läden quellen aufs Trottoir über. Fisch, Fleisch, Gurken, Gewürze, Suppe und Safran, Lahijan breitet sich mit seinem Reichtum vor unseren Füssen aus und seine Bewohner sorgen dafür, dass wir sie nicht vergessen werden. In bester Stimmung steigen wir in den Wagen und treten die Heimfahrt an.

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